Christmas in Florence

Angel Rooftop Bar and Restaurant, Florence

Florence, my favourite city, knows how to do Christmas as do most Italians. By late November, the city feels alive again. Lights stretch across the piazze, music drifts from street corners, and the smell of warm panettone follows you through the narrow lanes. Walk over the Arno and the bridges sparkle with Christmas lights. Shop windows look their best at this time of year with handmade gifts, leather goods, and those tempting Florentine treats you promise you’ll “save for later”.

The Christmas Market in Piazza Santa Croce runs from 15 November to 21 December and always pulls a crowd. Traditional wooden huts line the square with handmade decorations, toys, chocolates, mulled wine and German favourites. It is busy, friendly and full of families doing exactly what you will be doing. Wandering, nibbling and soaking up the atmosphere.

If you’re staying in the centre, Hotel Calimala works well for a winter break. It’s stylish, warm and quietly contemporary with a nod to Florentine tradition and heritage. After a day spent dipping in and out of shops, churches and galleries, it feels good to come back to calm interiors and a comfortable room.

The real treat, though, is upstairs. Angel Rooftop Bar and Restaurant gives you one of the best views in the city. You sit eye-level with Brunelleschi’s dome as the sky fades and the lights come on across the rooftops. Order a cocktail, share a few Italian small plates and take your time. The mood is relaxed, the service friendly and the setting ideal for anyone who wants to enjoy the season without fuss. Florence does Christmas beautifully and watching it from up here feels very special, I just wish I was there!

HOTEL SAVOY AND PINEIDER CELEBRATE THE JOY OF WRITING AND EMBRACE TIMELESS CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS THIS FESTIVE SEASON

Florence feels especially magical in December and this year Hotel Savoy has taken things a step further. They have partnered with Pineider, the historic Florentine stationery house, and one of my favourite shops in Florence, to bring a beautiful festive collaboration called Wrapped in Time to life. It celebrates slow travel and the joy of taking a moment for yourself in a world that rarely pauses.

As you walk into the lobby you’re met with a tall, elegant tree dressed with wax-sealed envelopes in gold, silver and deep red. Pineider’s stamps appear throughout the branches and the whole installation reflects the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship and detail. It sets the tone the moment you step inside.

Wrapped in Time also introduces A Wish for Florence. You’re invited to write a message for the city on Pineider paper. Each letter is placed inside a special Christmas box before being delivered to the Mayor. It is thoughtful, very Florentine and adds a lovely sense of connection.

Suites at Hotel Savoy take the collaboration even further. Guests staying in one of the suites receive Pineider stationery and are invited to try personalised calligraphy sessions, explore fountain pens and indulge in the simple pleasure of writing by hand. These moments are quiet and mindful and remind you how enjoyable it feels to switch off and create something lasting on paper.

There is also a charitable side to the project. Hotel Savoy and Pineider have written letters to children at Rome’s Gemelli Paediatric Hospital, sending messages of warmth and hope during the festive season. A small gesture that carries so much heart.

Florence does Christmas beautifully and this partnership is one of the loveliest additions to the city this year. Wrapped in Time brings together craft, tradition and a little nostalgia. Exactly what we need at this point in the year.

And, while you’re in Florence, why not visit the city’s newest Michelin star restaurant - Luca's Restaurant, located within the iconic 5* Hotel La Gemma.*

Luca’s carries a story that goes far beyond its Michelin star. It sits on the first floor of La Gemma Hotel, created by the Cecchi family as a tribute to their late father, Luca, who believed the table was the heart of family life. A place to gather. A place where conversations ran long and everyone felt welcome. The star recognises that spirit. It honours the way Luca welcomed people with ease, warmth and an open seat at the table.

For Massimiliano Cecchi, who shaped the restaurant’s vision alongside general manager Laura Stopani, the accolade holds deep meaning. He spoke about the pride he feels seeing his father’s name attached to such an important award. To him and his mother Alessandra, the star confirms the values Luca instilled. Care. Attention. Togetherness.

Luca’s by Paulo Airaudo sits a short stroll from Piazza della Signoria. Paulo brings experience from Europe, Latin America and Asia, yet in Florence he chose to respond to the city rather than impose a style on it. The cooking starts with a single ingredient and builds flavour with clarity and restraint. He talks about listening to place and working with sincerity day after day. He credits the team for everything they do to bring the restaurant to life.

Alongside him, chef Tommaso Querini and Olivia Cappelletti work with a steady, thoughtful rhythm. Their focus is on balance, simplicity and respect for ingredients. Tommaso describes the responsibility of supporting Paulo at Luca’s as something precious. Each dish reflects the relationships built in the dining room. It is hospitality rooted in people as much as technique.

Signature dishes show the confidence of the kitchen. Scampi with champagne sauce and foie gras. Tagliolino with goat’s butter, Cantabrico anchovies, Sorrento lemon and caviar. Wagyu with white onion and porcini mushrooms. Potato and Taleggio Buttons with yellow wine and razor clams. The food feels Italian in soul yet modern in delivery. It is thoughtful and precise without losing warmth.

Hotel La Gemma, Florence

La Gemma itself is a refined boutique hotel inside Palazzo Paoletti where comfort, understatement and a sense of home sit naturally together. The Cecchi family created a place that reflects their idea of genuine and authentic Italian hospitality. Attention to detail. A gentle touch. A feeling of being looked after.

The La Gemma Collection builds on this vision with a growing group of contemporary hotels across Italy. Each one keeps the family identity at its core. Connection, legacy and a shared idea of how hospitality should feel.

"La Gemma was born from a profound sense of belonging and a concept of hospitality that puts the person at the centre. We believe in hospitality that doesn't show off, but envelops; that offers time, a listening ear, and care. Our commitment is to ensure that every guest finds something personal in these places: a harmony, a detail, a gesture that makes them feel truly welcome. It is in this living, everyday relationship that we recognise the true essence of beauty,” says Laura Stopani, General Manager of La Gemma Collection.

*not yet tried.