Where to shop and where to eat in Marrakech
The multicultural city of Marrakech is about to become the first ever African City of Culture. The Red City will receive this honour in 2020 and was selected because of its two UNESCO world heritage sites – the Jemaa El Fna square and the Medina.
Culture vultures will also appreciate the re-opening of the Ben Youssef Medrasa in early 2020 after a complete renovation. It’s one of the most extraordinary examples of Moorish architecture in the world.
You’d be missing out if you came to Marrakech and didn’t enjoy the stunning gardens of Le Jardin Secret in the heart of the Medina, but to avoid the queues either go first thing in the morning or late afternoon. Stuck for WiFi during your tour of the medina and a decent loo? Le Jardin Secret has free WiFi included in the EUR 6 entry fee.
If you want to venture outside the Medina walls take a petit taxi (no more than 50 dirhams) to Guéliz and visit the Yves Saint Laurent Museum which spans 40 years of creative work by legendary French fashion designer Yves St Laurent. Next door is the famous Le Jardin Majorelle and just around the corner there’s a great shop Maroc’n Roll which sells beautiful and handmade leather handbags and painted shirts.
Les Terraces d’Epices
These guys used to be open throughout the day but now have strict breakfast, lunch and dinner times with no exception. Sadly not the friendliest of places – perhaps its success has gone to their heads, a shame as it’s in a great location in the souks. As a side not there is a cute basked shop downstairs ‘Original Marrakech’ where you can have any basket embroidered with your choice of words.
Le Jardin
A pretty, but dark courtyard where you can enjoy a coffee or lunch – great place to come for lunch or a light snack and there’s a great atmosphere. There’s a small designer shop Norya Ayron, (who has become a bit of a celebrity since selling to Sharon Stone) upstairs selling pretty kaftans, dresses and leather goods.
Bacha Coffee
New and gorgeous this place isn’t easy to find, in fact we walked past it twice! It’s hidden away in the Museum of the Confluences Museum (in the former Dar el Bacha) in Route Sidi Abdelaziz. You have to go through the museum to get to the café and be sure to mention at the entrance that that is your purpose or you will be charged for a museum visit. It’s open for breakfast (the Eggs Florentine are to-die-for) lunch and Afternoon Tea and closes at the same time as the museum at 6pm.
Nomad
Owner Kamal Laftimi is one of Marrakech's most creative entrepreneurs and owns some of the best restaurants in Marrakech in addition to Nomad including Le Jardin, La Famille, Café des Epices. Nomad is right in the heart of Souk Semmarine and like the others, it’s trendy but unpretentious and booking (online is best) is essential. You’ll find little signposts for it throughout the souks, follow them and you’ll arrive. It’s just a 5-minute walk from the Jemaa El Fna. A rooftop spot is a must to really soak up the atmosphere and far-reaching views across the Médina and beyond. The vegetarian pastilla with vegetables and goats cheese is enough for two as a starter and to follow try the lamb burger with aubergine and caramelised onions. Take your time over your food, it’s such a popular place once you’ve finished, you’re encouraged to leave.
WHERE TO SHOP
If you haven’t visited Marrakech for a while the Médina may be unrecognisable. It has been rebuilt, refurbished and now has a more sophisticated air to it giving visitors a feeling of safety that perhaps wasn’t there before. There are now some new boutique shops in the Médina and dotted around the souks.
By Faissal
If you’re after a hand-crafted cotton, linen or merino scarf this is the place to come. Faissal is the third generation in the business and all of the scarves are made in his workshop nearby.
Ke’ch Création
Owner, Carla, busy knitting in her shop.
Owned by Swiss Carla, this recently opened little boutique is just around the corner from By Faissal (they’re friends). Carla sells lovely linen tops and skirts and really lovely soft cashmere scarves – Carla is there every day knitting behind the counter – well worth a visit!
Beldi
Persevere Beldi is difficult to find open, I suggest you head there in the morning, I have his mobile if you need it!
We first visited Beldi over 10 years ago and nothing has really changed. This boutique is just at the entrance of the souks from the Place Jemaa El Fnaa – it’s opening hours are unpredictable but if you’re lucky enough to find it open it’s worth heading inside to discover shirts, fine cashmere scarves and beautifully made jackets.
Topolina
One size fits all (or not) at these two new trendy shops in Dar El Bacha that sell flamboyant jackets, trousers and bags.
Max & Jan
A concept store, not far from Riad Cocoon, which perhaps Marrakech doesn’t really need but it’s set up in a great space. Clothes are in one size only which is beyond ridiculous.
Riad-owner (Dar Kawa) and designer, Valérie has a great eye for detail and design which is beautifully represented in her shop. Bedlinen and towels in all sorts of colours and designs are on display, you’re in for a treat but the prices aren’t for the faint hearted.
Maroc’n Roll
A stone’s throw from the Yves Saint Laurent Museum this shop is an exquisite example of brilliant creative design and craftsmanship. Beautiful handmade bags (many hand-painted), shirts and purses in all sorts of colours. The talented owner Robert is charming, not often seen, but totally passionate about his creations.