Hotel Gardenia al Lago, Lake Garda
Hotel Gardenia al Lago
Hotel Gardenia al Lago
Romance and tradition play happily together on the west shores of Lake Garda, Italy at family-run Hotel Gardenia al Lago.
Fly to Verona, hire a car, and drive for 1 hour 20 minutes—you’ve arrived! This is a traditional, dare I say it, wonderfully old-fashioned hotel, privately owned, family run and an absolute rarity. A gem. It’s not all-singing all-dancing. It’s not five-star. It’s not a luxury hotel. What it is is a wonderful, traditional, lakeside hotel, run with love and passion and a wonderful team of staff, who make you feel loved, hugged and looked after. If you’re after a great value, authentic Italian experience on the shores of Lake Garda, this is it.
There are hotels you remember for their views, interiors or food and others you remember for how they make you feel. Hotel Gardenia al Lago in Gargnano, on the western shore of Lake Garda, manages both. Family-run for generations by the Arosio family, this lakeside hotel is steeped in history and tradition; it was once the Arosio’s summer house and has been in the family for three generations.
It’s Costantina, affectionately known as Tina, the matriarch, who greets you on arrival, if it’s not late in the evening, otherwise it’s her son Giorgio who runs the hotel — warm, grounded, and with that Italian gift for hospitality that feels entirely unforced. Her sons have carried the family’s love for this place into the next generation. Andrea, looks after one of the last surviving Limonaie — lemon houses — in the area, once part of a landscape dotted with more than 700 of them, when Lake Garda’s citrus fruits were exported all over the world. A visit to his Limonaia is a highlight. Standing among the ancient stone terraces, you can still see the wooden frames used to protect the trees from winter frost, and the scent of lemons fills the air. It’s a rare glimpse into a tradition that has almost disappeared, and Andrea’s quiet pride in preserving it’s infectious.
The family is part of a local cooperative — as one of its founding members — that celebrates the best of the region — from olive oils and citrus preserves to honey, wine, and artisan soaps — all produced by small independent growers and makers. It’s the perfect place to pick up a few gifts to take home, each one a small piece of Garda’s story.
Back at the hotel, life slows down. Right up until the middle of October breakfast is served on the terrace overlooking the lake, with the sound of lapping water and the clink of coffee cups, table cloths and proper napkins are a reminder of genuine hospitality, even at breakfast. Help yourself from the buffet of biscuits, cakes, different breads, hams, cheeses, fruit. You can boil yourself an egg or help yourself to scrambled eggs and bacon; there are some gluten-free options too.
The rooms are simple and stylish, featuring authentic Italian tiles (some with wooden floors) and beautifully crafted furniture from when the hotel was the Arosio’s summer house., Try and book a room with a lake view if you can, the sunrises and sunsets are magical. Bathrooms are modern with tiled floors, showers, bidets and heated towel rails.
Down in the garden, sun loungers sit under the olive trees, and the brave slip straight from the rocks into the clear, cool water. The hotel’s lido, just along the road, opens in the summer months with loungers, umbrellas and a little restaurant serving simple, delicious food.
Lunch and dinner are at Ristorante al Lago, either in the dining room or outside beneath the lemon trees where the scent of herbs drifts through the air. The food is light, seasonal and full of flavour: homemade pasta, lake fish and vegetables from nearby farms. Dinner is especially romantic with beautifully dressed tables, soft lighting and the twinkling lights of the lake ahead. Service is charming, friendly and unmistakably Italian.
And I must talk about the bar and those cocktails. The bar is small, old-fashioned and full of atmosphere. Cocktails are beautifully made and, at €9 for a Negroni, almost too tempting. I’ve told them to put their prices up. The wine list is sensible too, which might explain how we found ourselves ordering another bottle. It happens in a setting like this.
If you can tear yourself away from the water, book a massage with Raul, whose calm energy and healing hands have become something of a legend here. Better yet, spend the day hiking in the hills, return for a dip in the lake and then head to Raul’s treatment room.
If you’re a yoga fan and are looking for a terrace with a view to practice from then you’re going to love the first floor lakeside terrace at Hotel Gardenia…
Yoga on the terrace at Hotel Gardenia al Lago
Hotel Gardenia al Lago is one of those places that stays with you, long after you’ve left. It’s very traditional, almost old-fashioned and yet so romantic without trying and elegant without show or bling. Between Tina’s warmth, Andrea’s dedication to preserving local heritage, Giorgio’s gentle management with support from charming Francesca and Raul’s gentle touch, you leave with the feeling that you’ve not just stayed at a hotel — a family has welcomed you into a way of life that is both timeless and deeply Italian.
Andrea’s Limonaia at Fondo Crocefisso
As mentioned above one of the joys of staying at Hotel Gardenia al Lago is visiting Andrea’s Limonaia at Fondo Crocefisso, the family’s lemon house just outside Gargnano. Lemon growing has shaped life on Lake Garda since the 13th century, when locals built tall stone greenhouses to protect trees from winter frost. Andrea has brought his family terraces back to life. Today they’re heavy with lemons, threaded with olive trees and vines, and yield limoncello, citrus salts, olive oil and homemade jams. There was a time when more than 700 Limonaie lined these hillsides, exporting lemons across Europe. Andrea has lovingly restored his family’s terraces, now planted with lemons, olives, and vines. It’s well worth a visit during your stay to learn how the lemons are cultivated and taste products from the family’s co-operative — limoncello, citrus salts, olive oil, honey, and homemade jams, all made by local producers who share the same passion for this land.
Standing among the trees, with the scent of lemon and olive blossom in the air, you understand why this family — and their hotels — are woven into Gargnano’s story.