My New Happy Place - Chapel House, Penzance, Cornwall
Chapel House, Penzance
I used to have a happy place in Cornwall, it was called Westcroft Guesthouse in Kingsand. Sadly, it is no longer and is a great loss to visitors coming to Cornwall. Luckily for me (and everyone else!) I have found a new happy place, which is also in Cornwall! Penzance to be precise. And it was love at first sight, both for Penzance and Chapel House. I know that sounds dramatic, but there’s something about arriving at the end of the train line, the sea in front of you and the feeling that the rest of the world has been left somewhere around Plymouth, that makes you understand immediately why people come this far south and never quite manage to leave (or if they do, always come back). Sue is a case in point. She moved from London in 2008, saw The Chapel House, had to have it and never looked back. The renovations were almost complete before she realised it would be rather a waste not to share it with others. And so here we are and there I was.
Chapel House sits in the heart of Penzance on Chapel Street, a stone's throw from the harbour and within easy walking distance of the independent shops of Causeway Head, cafés and restaurants that make this town feel unlike anywhere else in Cornwall. From the outside, it’s handsome, majestic, and understated. Inside, it is entirely Sue.
The floors are painted a glossy chalk white, the walls are a living gallery of work by local artists, and the sofas and chairs run to purples, yellows and oranges (Sue’s favourite colours) that work brilliantly together. There are two open fires in the sitting rooms, and the whole house has the feeling of somewhere that has been put together slowly and with genuine thought rather than handed over to an interior designer and forgotten about. Downstairs on the garden level is the hub of the house, an open-plan kitchen and dining area where you’ll more than likely find Sue during the day, sitting in her purple linen shirt that matches the orange and purple flowers as though the whole thing was planned, which, knowing Sue, it probably was.
The six rooms and duplex suite are bright, spacious and beautiful, modern with considered design touches and large bathrooms, some with both bath and shower. Sustainability runs through everything here. Bamboo loo paper, sulphate-free organic bath products, wooden beds and efficient underfloor heating.
As well as being the owner, Sue is the in-house concierge and knows pretty much everything about the local area. Where to eat, where to drink, where to shop, where to walk. She has a map for every area of the UK, so whether you want a gentle stroll along the promenade or something more ambitious, she has it covered. Her team of girls, Kate, Catie and Lucia, are lovely, and nothing is too much trouble. Fancy a cup of tea and cake? No problem. Want the sauna or hot tub at four in the afternoon? Give James an hour's notice and he will arrive with a DryRobe in time. Feeling in need of some proper restoration? Book a treatment with Rachel and allow yourself a couple of hours to press pause. You’ll want to curl up by the fire with a cup of tea and a blanket afterwards and that’s entirely the point about The Chapel House, it’s a retreat from our frenetic lives.
"I create a space for you to relax and let go, then gently guide and nurture you back to balance. My aim is to leave you feeling rejuvenated, lighter emotionally and ready to face the week ahead."
- Rachel Lorente, Women’s Balance
Breakfast is served from eight until ten with freshly made green and berry juices, bacon sandwiches, avocado on toast, fresh fruit salad, yoghurt, granola, sourdough and a selection of Sue's own handmade jams. A word of advice: don’t book anywhere for lunch. You won’t have room!
While you’re in Penzance, walk to Morrab Gardens and then follow the promenade for a mile down to Newlyn. It’s flat all the way, right by the sea, and it will blow away whatever you arrived with. Penzance does that. What makes it different from so many other Cornish towns is its authenticity. It’s not crammed with second homes (though there are some obviously). The locals are actually local. The winters are quiet, as they are everywhere on the coast, but they offer something the summer months cannot, a slower pace and a town that belongs to the people who live in it. The young are creative and ambitious, opening up shops and restaurants and cafés that discerning travellers will love. I enjoyed delicious pig cheeks and crispy aubergine with feta cheese at the newly opened Barbican Bistro. Young owners Jack and Jay opened this simple, wooden-floored bistro back in January and it’s already so popular booking is essential. A quiet revival is happening here. I just hope Penzance stays under the radar a little longer.
Getting to Penzance is part of the experience. The overnight train from Paddington on a Friday evening is genuinely fun. You arrive Saturday morning feeling as though you’ve already had an adventure, and if you’re travelling with children, they’ll love every minute of it. The regular train takes around five hours and follows a scenic, unhurried route (due to speed restrictions) that is lovely if you have the time. That said, I would recommend driving, because once you’re here you’ll want to explore. St Ives, Carbis Bay and the ferry to the Scilly Isles are all within reach, and having a car means you can follow your nose and be spontaneous.
Yes, Penzance is a long way from everywhere, and people will tell you so constantly. But that’s exactly why it works and what makes it so special. It’s at the end of the line. It hasn’t quite caught up with the rest of Cornwall, and that’s the whole point. I loved it so much that I have already made appointments with estate agents. Sue would understand entirely.
Rates per room from £205 including breakfast.