Ile de Ré, La Rochelle, France
Nearest airport - 30 minutes from La Rochelle or you can take a day and drive from the UK (it’s about 5 hours from Paris)
Île de Ré is an island off the west coast of France known for its salt marshes, fresh oysters, mussels and beaches backed by dunes and fragrant pine trees. Fly into La Rochelle airport and then grab a taxi for the half hour ride onto the island. Always wanted to go but don’t know where to start or where to stay? Here is my run down of where to go, what to do and where to stay on Île de Ré based on what we have done every year as a family. Whatever you decide to do, you can revel in the sheer picturesque beauty of the island, whose resident donkeys are given trousers to wear to protect them from the mosquitoes.
Don’t hire a car unless you have driven over (or are renting a villa) as the island is set up for cycling with paths weaving in and out of the towns across the island. The Ile de Ré is an idyllic place, where you can disconnect from the real world. Indeed, Île de Ré is known for its white houses with blue shutters, a slice of heaven whose distinctive whitewashed houses have earned it the nickname of “Ré la blanche” (Ré the white). Many people would advise against going in the height of summer when the French and other discerning travellers descend on the island. I go with my family every year at the end of August when many French schools have returned, it’s slightly cooler and the beaches less crowded.
Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré
In the heart of Ile de Ré, this charming village, famous for its large summer market is bordered by 4 miles of Blue Flag beaches (please note this is the Atlantic Coast, not the Mediterranean so don’t expect crystal clear, warm waters).
If you’d like to try surfing this is the place to do it and La Plage des Gollandières has several surf schools dotted along the beach. Spending a morning or afternoon on the beach is a must, we usually head to Beach Bar Ile de Ré on Avenue de la Plage for some waffles, pizza or refreshing Aperol Spritz either on our way in our way out to the beach. Or if you want to explore, hop on your bike, get lost on the maze cycle paths and discover the other 9 villages on the island. You’ll soon get your bearings.
For the past few years we have stayed in the charming boutique hotel Les Bois Flottais in the village of Bois Plage. Owners Nathalie & Frédéric are a delight as is the hotel with its two heated pools, steam room, spa room and restaurant. It’s a 5-minute cycle ride to the beach and less than that to the centre of the village which has a market every morning outside and a food market each day inside a market hall. We head to the market every morning to buy baguette, hams, cheeses, wild strawberries and apricots to take with us to the beach. Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 27 00 or contact@lesboisflottais.com.
Cycle Hire
Nathalie can organise bike hire for you so you can have bikes on your arrival and don’t have to waste a morning picking them up and dropping them back. In fact any hotel on Île de Ré should be able to offer this service for you. If you prefer to organise your own bicycles there is a Cycland (www.cycland.fr) or equivalent in every village on the island.
Another great boutique hotel option and where we first stayed when the children were young (they have some great family options) is L’Océan Hotel et Restaurant (below) a short bike ride from Les Bois Flottais still in Bois Plage. It has a restaurant with indoor and outside seating, bar and pool. Wherever you’re staying on Ile de Ré this restaurant should be top your list, their baked cod is delicious and we always come here the first night we arrive. Tel: + 33 (0)5-46-09-23-07 or info@re-hotel-ocean.com.
St-Martin-de-Ré
The capital of the island is the port of Saint-Martin. St-Martin-de-Ré is home to the 17th-century Fortifications of Vauban, plus outdoor cafés overlooking the marina. Easily accessible along the many cycle paths the port should be your number one stop, not only for the atmosphere but some of the best ice cream on the island from La Martinière offering an amazing selection of original flavours. The owner also has a workshop, with a short menu consisting of savoury pies and salads. If pastries are your thing, especially when in France!, then take a stop at Do Ré Mie bakery while you’re in St Martin. I don’t recommend eating at any of the port-side restaurants, as with many port towns they tend to be rather touristy and expensive. Walk across the quay however and for some of the best food on the island make your way to Le Bistrot du Marin. It doesn’t take bookings and is closed on Thursday evenings. Get here early to make sure you get your pick of tables, it fills up incredibly quickly!
Further along the quay (to the right) is restaurant L’Avant Port a chic bistro where chef Jérôme Laporte uses only the best local products to create sophisticated dishes. Book a table outside to admire the view of the bustling port. Tel: +33 (0) 5 46 68 06 68.
Where to stay in St-Martin-de-Ré
Hotel de Toiras
Luxury hotels on Ile de Ré don’t come better than this. This boutique hotel has one of the best locations on the island at the entrance of Saint-Martin-de-Ré. It’s a Relais & Chateaux property which oozes luxury and tradition without being pretentious. Sister boutique hotel Villa Clarisse next door is just as luxurious and has a garden with a heated outdoor pool.
Tel: +33 (0) 5 46 35 40 32.
Villa Clarisse: +33 (0) 5 46 68 43 00
La Maison Douce
At the heart of Saint-Martin-de-Ré La Maison Douce is a stylish little boutique hotel a couple of streets above the port, away from the hustle and bustle. I visited a couple of years ago and found the owner unwelcoming and not very friendly, but perhaps I caught him on a bad day, my sister-in-law stayed there on my recommendation and loved it. His style however, is lovely, his hotel a world of elegance, modern comfort and calm.
Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 20 20.
Le Corps de Garde
Charming hotel or exceptional guesthouse either way this 17th-century building is home to 5 rooms. A little oasis of calm in the port of Saint-Martin-de-Ré it’s the perfect spot for a few days away and in a great location.
Tel: +33 (0) 5 46 09 10 50.
La Cible Beach (and Restaurant)
Visit St-Martin-de-Ré early evening to look around the shops before cycling through the town past the ramparts en-route to La Flotte to La Cible beach where you’ll find La Cible restaurant. It has mixed reviews but we love it, we go there at least three times a week during our holiday. It’s right on the beach with a varied menu and if you’re without children, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a few bottles of rosé followed by a snooze on the beach (after all you’re only cycling!). Tel: +33 (0) 5 46 67 38 82.
Continue cycling along the coastal road/path to La Flotte and you’ll cycle past a rustic outdoor restaurant called Les Copains Bâbord - La Cabane ostréicole des Huîtres Famille Le Corre, a mouthful I know but it serves the best and freshest moules, oysters, crevettes and langoustine with baguette. No meat or frites here. Make sure you leave room for their fondant au chocolat, its to-die-for. Tel: +33 (0) 5 46 01 35 51.
La Flotte
From Les Copains Bâbord the centre of La Flotte is less than a 10 minute cycle ride along the coastal path. It’s one of the oldest villages on Ile de Ré and is full of charm and authenticity. La Flotte has been classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. The pretty harbour is the ideal spot for a morning coffee in the warmth of the sun before gearing yourself up for the fantastic market. There are two parts to the market - one is a fabulous sheltered food market and the other is outside selling a variety of lovely products including soaps, crystals and jewellry.
The beach l’Arnérault is near the port, perfect if you’re cycling through, for a break, a swim, or a nap under the trees. July and August, are great months to come to really soak up the atmosphere and you can stroll through the night market on the Cours Félix Faure, and watch/listen to the musical shows on the big stage.
If you’re here for culture or want to take in a little La Flotte has a rich cultural heritage with Sainte-Catherine’s church, Abbaye des Châteliers, Fort la Prée... the Musée du Platin can arrange guided tours of the village and the Abbey. La Flotte is also well-known for its 5 star thalassotherapy centre opposite the beach, a pampering spot for frazzled Mummys!.
La Couarde
We love La Couarde, it’s a cute little market village with a wonderful atmosphere. It’s a 3 mile cycle ride from Bois Plage and about 5 from St-Martin-de-Ré. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by the diversity with its secret lanes, fine sandy beaches, shops and cafés. There are sandy beaches, vineyards or salt marshes as far as your eyes can see and to the south, bordered by pines, a beautiful 3-mile long beach. Thanks to this sandy beach, La Couarde was the first seaside resort on the Isle of Ré at the beginning of the 20th-century. Oyster farming has developed and continues to grow, but today wine production is the prime economic activity.
Every month there’s an antiques market which spreads itself through the village, it’s a lovely way to spend the morning followed by baguette, cheese and salami (washed down with an Aperol Spritz) at boutique hotel Hôtel Le Vieux Gréement in the square. Service isn’t great, nor is it particularly cheery but it’s the perfect spot to watch the world go by for an hour or two. It’s difficult to predict when it’s open and it closes towards the end of August. Tel: +33 5 46 29 82 18
Taking back the road towards the northern coast, you will come across the Chenal de Goisil, a tiny picturesque port that has been inspiring painters and photographers for years.
Ars-en-Ré
Allow for 30 minutes to cycle from La Couarde to Ars-en-Ré, it’s a lovely ride through salt marshes and vineyards and you can see the church spire in the distance as you approach. Charming and utterly unspoilt Ars is a quiet village with less than 2000 inhabitants. Expect flowering alleys and paved pathways. It has some of the best shops on the island, though not all are easy to find (if you come in by bicycle you’ll pass a couple of lovely interior shops just before you arrive at the village). In the centre of the village is the shop Séjour a jewellry shop where I spent hours browsing before I chose two delicate threads with small discs of initialled silver for my daughters.
Chez Remi is a lovely, relaxed restaurant just by the port, popular with locals and visitors, the service is really friendly and the food, simple and delicious.
Ars is also one of the 'Most Beautiful Villages in France'' and has 2 protected sites and monuments, the church of Saint-Etienne and the Seneschal House. There are still over 60 salt producers operating in the salt marshes of Fier d'Ars and you’ll come across stands along the road where you can stop and buy some to take home.
Hotel Le Sénéchal
It was love at first sight when I first visited Hotel Le Sénéchal (www.hotel-le-senechal.com) just off the main square in Ars. It wasn’t because it’s a luxury boutique hotel, it isn’t. It’s a charming, simple and yet very chic boutique hotel and a great choice for a few days break. I fell in love with the twinkling fibre-optic lights embedded into the polished concrete path that leads you past the small pool into the reception. Such a great idea and just so pretty. There are little self-catering houses to choose from as well as family rooms, some just have baths so beware shower-lovers and request at the time of booking. Whilst I have never stayed, I always go and visit every year, there’s something very special about this place, it has an amazing energy and it’s definitely one of the best places to stay in Ars.
La Tour de Sénéchal
This deli on Ile de Ré is just around the corner from the hotel. Really its Ars’ village épicerie (grocery) but is a gourmet hot spot for cyclists and savvy locals. If you love flavours then the tasting platters which include a dozen oysters, cumin-laced vegetable samosas, sesame-spiced salmon are for you and they showcase the seasonal local produce from the island and region. Tables and chairs are outside spilling on to the square. I ordered the meat and cheese plate which came with baskets of baguette, all washed down rather nicely with a cool carafe of rosé.
If you’ve always thought about going to Ile de Ré but never made it. Go. Flights to La Rochelle are quick and the airport is small. You may have to queue a little for a taxi but then it’s only half an hour to the island. I can honestly say it will be one of the best European holidays you’ll have and you’ll be forever smitten.